RV Spring Check: Step-by-Step Ready for the Season

Everything you need to know to get your RV safely and reliably back on the road after its winter hibernation – explained by workshop expert Jürgen.

Content of this post

  1. Vehicle & Chassis – Visual Inspection
  2. Cab & Engine
  3. Gas system, heating & energy supply
  4. Water, Sanitation & Indoor Environment
  5. Electric step & extras
  6. Cleaning & Hygiene
  7. Final Check & Expert Tip
  8. Our checklist for download
  9. FAQ
Winter is over, the first warm rays of sun are beckoning – and the motorhome is waiting for its grand entrance. But before the first trip of the season begins, there's the Motorhome Spring Check Anyone who skips this step risks unpleasant surprises at the campsite: a dead battery, a forgotten frost protection valve, or a stove that won't light.

Our workshop expert Jürgen – who has been with Ahorn Camp for over seven years and is a passionate camper himself – walks you through, step by step, how to get your RV ready for travel again after its winter hibernation.

Why is the spring check-up so important?

A motorhome combines a motor vehicle, a living unit, and technical infrastructure—water, gas, and electricity must all function reliably. After a frosty winter, various systems may have suffered: water pipes could be frozen, the battery might be discharged, and seals could have become porous.

Depending on the conditions, we had a harsh winter with frost. Water in the system, something could have broken. The battery might have suffered from the long period of inactivity. We want to check all of that and get it running again.

1. Vehicle & Chassis – Visual Inspection

Tire check and air pressure

Start with the tires: check the tread for wear, inspect the entire tread surface for embedded screws or nails, and look for cracks in the sidewall. Tire pressure is especially important after winter – it noticeably decreases in the cold. In the front, you should 4.5 bar refill, back on 4.8 bar, because the setup there puts significantly more weight on the axle. Get a proper tire pressure gauge – your gut feeling isn't enough here.

Body, flaps, and awning

Inspect the entire outer shell for dents, scratches, and cracks. Open all service hatches and check seals. Extend the awning completely – watch for leaves, moisture, or early signs of mold.

When doing the exterior walkthrough, always start at one corner and walk systematically around – that way you're guaranteed not to forget anything!

2. Cab & Engine

Open the hood and prop it up—on newer vehicles like the Ahorn Camp T680, all fluid levels are color-coded, so you’ll find your way around right away. Check the coolant in both reservoirs; experience shows that the windshield washer fluid is often empty after winter, and it’s worth checking the level and color of the brake fluid.

As long as the hood is open, be sure to Marten damage Beware. Martens are a common nuisance for campers – they particularly like to gnaw on rubber hoses, cables, and plastic parts. Jürgen experiences this regularly in his workshop: „Marten tracks are often only visible after winter. The vehicle hasn't moved for months, and you only notice it now.“ A brief, thorough inspection takes a minute and can prevent costly subsequent damage.

Marten tracks are often only visible now after winter – always keep a close eye on cables, hoses, and plastic parts!

3. Gas installation, heating & energy supply

Commissioning gas system

The gas compartment in modern Ahorn Camp vehicles has room for two 11-kilo cylinders and is easily accessible. If the cylinder survived the winter in the vehicle, hopefully it was simply turned off—in that case, you can turn it back on now and get going right away. If your vehicle is equipped with a crash sensor, quickly check to see if the yellow safety pin is still in place. It only pops out in the event of a hard impact, but a quick glance won’t hurt. Next, open the gas valves inside the vehicle, go to the stove, turn it on, and light it. Is the flame burning cleanly? Then the gas system is ready. It sounds simple—but this is exactly the test many people forget, and then they’re left standing there with a cold stove at the welcome dinner at the campground.

Battery. The most common weak point.

AGM battery

Sensitive to deep discharge. Often beyond repair below 9 volts. In winter: Pull out the 50A fuse, so that no unwanted discharge occurs.

Lithium battery

Significantly more robust. Automatic deep discharge protection and separate shut-off switch (press for 5 seconds). Does not need to be removed.

Test all refrigerator modes

Test all three operating modes: Gas, 230 V (Shore power) and 12 V (Motor). In automatic mode, the refrigerator independently selects the most efficient source.

Never deep-discharge an AGM battery! In winter, remove the 50 A fuse – this is the simplest protective measure.

4. Water, Sanitation & Indoor Space

Close the frost vent first. Absolutely!

Before you even pour in a drop of water, the frost valve must be closed. If you forget, all the filling water will immediately run out of the vehicle. Push the blue button sideways and press down at the same time.

Disinfect and fill tank

Now comes the step that many skip—and that comes back to haunt them in the summer: tank hygiene. First, fill the tank about two-thirds full with water, add a disinfectant, and then take the vehicle for a short drive. The water sloshes through the tank, wetting all interior surfaces. Then drain everything and refill with fresh water. Only then switch on the pump at the control panel, turn on all the faucets in the vehicle—including in the shower—and let them run until water comes out everywhere. Important: The boiler needs some time to fill completely and vent. Let it run long enough, otherwise you'll have air pockets in the lines later during shower operation.

Toilet, roof hatches, and mosquito screens

Check the wastewater valve before each departure – it must be closed. Check the toilet cassette for seals and test the flush water function. Check the roof hatches for seal damage. Treat stiff mosquito screens with silicone spray.

5. Electric step & extras

For vehicles with an electric step: ensure smooth operation. If it jerks, grease or lubricating spray will help. Afterwards, take a short test drive – check the rear-view camera and all assistance systems during this.

6. Cleaning & Hygiene

Ideally, you'll have thoroughly cleaned the vehicle before winter storage – but a spring refresh is still worthwhile. Dust off the interior, wipe out the cutlery drawers and cabinets, and put in fresh bedding. The refrigerator should have been left open and empty over the winter – now clean it and restock it. Self-service car washes with high-pressure cleaners are well-suited for washing the exterior. Jürgens' important tip: don't hold the high-pressure cleaner too close to the refrigerator's ventilation slots – the inlet is on the side, the outlet is on top, and high pressure directed there can damage the unit. Be just as careful with stickers: too much pressure from too close will loosen them at the edges.

7. Final Inspection & Expert Tip

Last question before your first trip: Do you still remember how high your RV is? This information is surprisingly easy to forget after a winter – with potentially costly consequences at low bridges or parking garage entrances.

Write down the vehicle's height and stick it to the dashboard! The Ahorn Camp T680, for example, is 2.85 m tall—it sounds simple, but this tip can save more than one vacation.

Before you drive off, one last look at the formalities: When is the next main inspection due? When is the leak test scheduled? Anyone who takes care of this in the spring can combine both with a workshop appointment and start the season without any unresolved issues. And a short test drive around the block never hurts – you can simultaneously check if water is leaking from anywhere under the vehicle, which would indicate a burst hose.

8. Checklist for Download

Grab our spring check checklist and start the season safely.

Here is the weight tool tip